tDCS Headset Battery Replacement

I have a tDCS headset that was becoming unusable due to a failing battery.  I decided to replace the battery myself rather that take the time and effort to return it to for repair.  I thought you might want to see what is involved in battery replacement.  It’s not a job for a novice – good soldering skill (and good vision) is required.  If you don’t want to tackle the job yourself, a local battery replacement shop might be able to do it as they often do soldering work.

The battery in the headset is a small 3.7V, 150 mAh lithium polymer type (model 041230) and like any battery is prone to eventually fail. It is available from a number of sources – including EBay where I purchased mine for $3. By the way a single AA alkaline battery has a capacity of about 2,000 mAh – thus explaining the need to charge the headset fairly often.

To replace the battery, you must remove the back cover which is held in place by two small torx-style screws.  If you don’t have a small torx drive around, you may find a small flat-blade screwdriver will suffice. Once the screws are removed, gently bend the headband back and the cover can be lifted away. Inside you will find a small circuit board, the lithium polymer battery, and very thin, delicate wires.  Use great care as you work to avoid breaking a wire.

You will need to gently lift the board off of the plastic pins that position it as the solder connections for the battery are on the underside of the board. You can then turn the board over for desoldering the old battery and soldering the new battery in place.

With the cover removed, the battery, circuit board, and thin connecting wires can be seen.)


(I use a “third hand” to hold the board while I do soldering work. Note the red, positive battery lead is to the outside edge of the board.)

Once the new battery is soldered in place, you can return the circuit board to its alignment posts, place the battery on top of the circuit board, and then put the cover back in place. Be careful not to crimp the fine wires from the battery or those running to the electrode sockets.  Once the cover is back on, reinsert and tighten the two torx screws and you are done!

I suggest you give the headset a good two or three hour charge and it should be ready to go.




8 comments on “ tDCS Headset Battery Replacement

  1. Thank you for sharing your skills. Ive been coming back to your blog for a while now and every time i learn something new.

  2. Received my headset yesterday and first impressions are excellent (the unpacking was just as exciting as you mentioned in the user guide). Appreciate the time invested in cultivating our curiosity. On battery life; i was wondering if you could elaborate on your physical usage of the device: How to many times you use it a week, session time; etc – to ensure longest battery life possible. Thank you.

    • The battery is a lithium type so its life is not affected (much) by repeated charging. The best suggestion on session length comes from the many studies of tDCS – 20 to 25 minutes.


  3. Thanks for putting up so much great info! I had a question

    I just purchased a refurbished headset and it arrived a bit damaged: one of the copper contact plates (looks like a smooth penny) was disconnected from the headset. Is this something I can fix myself or have an electronic repair shop fix easily? I emailed and (after waiting 10 days for a reply) they said that they’re out of refurbished units to replace it with and they can only give me a refund.

    I’d rather keep the headset and use it, but is this an issue I can fix on my own? I have no soldering experience or tools, but I may know an electronics repair shop that can fix it if that’s all it needs.

    Thanks in advance for any advice.


    • Hi Adam,

      I have not tried to disassemble that part of a headset. It looks like the two plastic pieces might be glued. If the copper plate has popped out, is there enough wire visible that would permit soldering it to the copper plate?


      • There’s a small bit of wire exposed, probably enough to solder, but I’ve had no luck getting info from on whether this is the way to fix it or not via email. And they don’t seem to have a customer service phone number.

        I really just need someone in a “tech support” capacity to tell me “Yes, you can fix it that way” or “No, you need a whole new one”.

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